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  1. #1
    Guest

    Building plane microlight.

    Howdy, I'm looking to build a flexwing microlight aircraft, in the ssdr catorgory.

    Because it simply bolts on to a wing is there no need for C of G stuff? Because i Have a very simple design, stick a Rtax 447 on the back would it still hang cventral? Also if anyone has any tips about building them i would be most please


    Lots of love Jonh xxxx

  2. #2
    Guest

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Best advice I can give is buy ready built. There are plenty of pre84 machines hidden in barns, get one and REBUILD. Design and build yourself is not easy. speak to your instructor first.

    What am I saying I'm an outlaw, no seriuosly leave it to the experts.

    Leroy

  3. #3
    Guest

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Hoe much would one of the these machines cost ++ where can i get them from? And wouldnt all the metal be corroded? Im not talking abouyt the wing as i would buy one, just bolt my trike on underneath? If i did buy an old one could i put a new engine on + new instruments + replace all the metal?

    Lots of Love Jonh xxxxx

  4. #4

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Jonh,

    It's straightforward enough to build a trike, and although there's little need to consider C of G from a flight perspective there is when it comes to take off and landing. The trike must be balanced when hanging from the hang point, fully loaded, so that the rear wheels are lower than the front, otherwise it will wheelbarrow along the ground - not nice, plus the bar will be in an odd location in flight. You want the bar to be in a comfortable place at HOT speed, with enough room to get it to speed up as required or slow down to near the stall.

    Also, the amount by which the rear wheels hang low has to be right. If they are too low, then the front wheel get's a rough time when landing, as it will tend to bang down hard. Bear in mind that the thrust line of a trike may cause the trike to pitch up or down with power, too. Ideally the thrust line should go through the C of G, but this is rarely achievable. Inevitably the thrust line is above the trike C of G, for prop ground clearance reasons, so full power tends to push the nose wheel down. The trike C of G needs to be such that there is still enough nose wheel up force to overcome the full power nosewheel down force from the offset thrust line.

    A good starting position would be for the trike to hang with the nose wheel about 4 to 6 inches higher than the rear wheels and go from there. Flight testing might show that there is a need to increase or decrease this, depending on the engine thrust effect.

    All told, buying an old Chaser or something similar might be a better bet. There's little risk of alloy corrosion, because most trikes are made from alloys that are fairly corrosion resistant. Any steel parts would need a good look at though, as would all the fasteners. Even good aircraft grade bolts tend to corrode rather quickly on microlights. The thing to look out for when buying an old machine would be damage. Dented or bent tubes might be costly to replace, especially if they are made from US size tubing, as many early machines were. US 6061-T6 alloy tube is expensive, especially in some of the odd-ball gauges, like 17g, that found there way into some early trikes. Euro spec 6082-T6 tube is easy to buy, not particularly expensive and pretty much ideal for building a trike. It's a direct replacement for the US 6061-T6 alloy or the old HE30/HT30 British spec alloy.

    Hope this helps,

    Jeremy

    PS: Place a wanted ad on AFORS and the BMAA web site and see what comes up. Many old machines are just lying idle in the back of barns.

  5. #5
    Guest

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Even the oldies had anodised (plated) tubes, and you just replace any corroded tube with new. Mainair did supply tube at one time, but any good alloy supplier can supply tube. The most common spec was HT30TF or just plain HT30, but it MUST BE seamless. If you can get your hands on copies of early flightline, ie pre84 editions, they were full of how to build or repair your own machine. Those magazines were and are good reading. As for changing the engine, most early machines had Robin engine which are better than Rotax. The only thing to change is the reduction drive to toothed belt which is better than Vee belt.
    If you are serious about this project, speak to people where you fly from, speak to your inspector, or find a friendly one and ask advice. Also log into this forum properly, the anonymous area is where us outlaws live. I may be a cowboy, but I'm a SAFE one.

    Leroy

  6. #6

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    You'll find the old HT30 spec harder to come by now, Leroy, but 6082-T6 is virtually the same and easy to buy as seamless stock from pretty much any metal factor. My local supplier doesn't keep the really thin wall stuff (thinner than 16g), but can get it easily enough to special order. The only snag I've found is that the price of aluminium alloys goes up and down like a yoyo!

    Jeremy

  7. #7
    Guest

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    I have made some plans in a design program, not very good only take about 1/2 an hour.

    Please have looksys!


    Lots of Love Jonh


    Looks like me cant add any pictures!

  8. #8
    Senior Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    United Arab Emirates
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    349

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Guys, this Jonh fella is taking the pi*s, not sure what he's hoping to achieve exactly but it's a pi*s take nonetheless.

    Dave

  9. #9
    Founding Member - See my blog entries for help using the forums VinceG's Avatar

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    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Wondering whether to get rid of this anonymous area...
    Happy Safe Flying
    May your Landings = Your Take Offs
    Vince Gledhill
    Site Admin
    http://www.microlightforum.com
    http://www.greeneru.co.uk to save the planet by changing to LED lights.

    Find help here with various aspects of using the forum in my blog

  10. #10
    Guest

    Re: Building plane microlight.

    Don't do that, Vince.
    And there was me being a "safe" outlaw.

    Leroy

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